And look at all the fucks behind him loving it, they knew it was going to happen. I am embarrassed for the US right now and I’m not even American.

Armageddon!

I am using Elite C’s.

Almost forgot, Teaching Tech has a great calibration web site and YouTube channel.

My first suggestion if you have a Raspberry Pi Zero 2w or better is to install Klipper. If that isn’t a route to go down for you then Myers firmware was really good (not sure if it’s still around since I went to Klipper).

I’ve printed so many miss for mine, spool holder moves to the side, filament guides, different spool holders with bearings, new hot end fan assemblies ,small tool holder that slides into the v slots. Covers for the V slots.

It’s a great machine to learn and tinker on, some people don’t like that but I really enjoyed it.

I’ve since switched to direct drive instead of the Bowden tube and added another Z rod and stepper. I have a microswiss all metal hotend which has been fantastic and I have put Noctua fans for the heat break. Also upgrade the Bowden tube to the Capricorn type, it is much better.

A magnetic build plate from Biqu was another good addition.

Almost forgot, I printed risers for the feet out if TPU and that seems to help, I probably would have tried the ones that the squash balls go into but these work fine. In order to print TPU with the Bowden tube you need to print slow.

Also keep an eye on the plastic handle on the filament extruder, they are known to be weak and crack, a good aluminum dual gear is a good low cost investment.

Search on Thingiverse and Printables for mods for the Ender 3 and you will be overwhelmed with your options.

Patience is a virtue, and remember there are no stupid questions and a huge community of people willing to help.

If there is anything else I can do to help, don’t hesitate to ask.

Currently I’m doing the bed level with everything at room temperature.

I’ll give it a try heated to see if that is causing the warping.

Cheers.

I have it clear the mesh, take a new mesh as default, and load default mesh in my start profile.

I though it might be the same, but it does make micro movements along the board to adjust for the mesh reading.

Double checked the operation of the BL Touch, it’s working and no issue (mechanically at least).

I did a complete relevel of the bed and still had an issue in the middle of the bed. Commented out the bed mesh in my config and had a better result in the middle of the bed.

Running with no BK Touch for now.

Thanks.

I’ll give that a go. Thanks for the idea.

I’ll try running sans BL Touch, it’s just weird that it was working before the board change without issue. I’ve cranked down on the silicon spacers to make sure it’s difficult for them to loosen up over time, will see how that goes.

Thanks for your comment.

How many prints do you think you’re putting through before you’re cleaning it.

I run mine through a porous rock filter (I’ll try to find the video link) every couple of months.

Typically I pre wash with Mean Green, then into the isopropyl which helps extend the life of the isopropyl.