Just opposite of the current position. Would only apply to views where thumbnails can be on one side of course (small, smaller, compact)
Just opposite of the current position. Would only apply to views where thumbnails can be on one side of course (small, smaller, compact)
It would be nice to have a quick action to change thumbnails to the opposite side.
Artic is replacing that cooler with a newer model. Try to get a good deal on the previous version or swap to the new model.
Only the headphone jack crackle issue mentioned.
I’m not sure. Like I said, I never installed more than just the drivers from them when I had a Nvidia GPU. Just heard that whatever software they had wasn’t great.
It is not the drivers that dictate the fan but the GPU bios. So how the card behaves depends on how the manufacturer tuned it which is to say, these days it’ll work fine. Many “high end” cards usually have a bios switch for silent or turbo mode so whatever.
Back when I had a 1080ti, I used afterburner to set my own fan curve. And now with my rx6900xt I use AMD’s adrenaline because it actually works great for many things including setting a custom fan curve . I’ve heard Nvidia’s first party software was a bit of a mess for oc stuff so that’s why Afterburner became so popular but I never installed anything past Nvidia’s drivers so maybe it’s good now, who knows.
It depends more on how much time you want to spend on post processing and how detailed the part is. Teller layers means more time spent filling and smoothing.
You can print at .2 layer height with a .6 noz and benefit from a thicker line width, giving you stronger parts but the overall time to print will still be similar compared to a .4 noz.
If your options are limited, it might be helpful to list them.
Possibly some kind of taffy sort of candy
I actually started listening to his Avalon album again, so good.
Even the steam deck’s touch pads could be moved up more imo however, these look to be pretty much unusable.
+1 for display fusion.
Neat, it’s a real thing.
Don’t rule out the wire behind the dash. I was experiencing similar behavior until my phone just didn’t connect but still was getting power from the port. Turns out the wire connecting the USB port and the head unit was faulty. If I wiggled the wire on the end connected to the head unit then it worked like normal.
Did you freehand the cuts or use the chopsticks/skewers assisted method?