I own a repair shop and use USB to SATA adapters all the time. Sector scans, imaging/cloning, and booting live environments.
It has less to do with the medium and more to do with the quality of your chosen adapter.
I have one of the adapter you pictured, ordered it to test it out because it was comparatively low cost. Did not order more.
I have about a dozen of the Sabrent adapters and they see daily use.
USB can actually be ideal in some data recovery scenarios. HDDSuperClone / OpenSuperClone support a relay mode that turns a disk off and back on to regain access after they drop out, and that is reliant on a USB connection.
Use of pepper spray is typically appropriate in self defense, so in response to a threat of physical violence.
I didn’t see a clear threat of physical violence in the video.
Camera guy probably landed himself an assault charge with that escalation.
I don’t understand why you were downvoted for asking this question. I’ve literally watched techs cause this damage by trying to open the lid with the back cover screws removed.
Most laptops have at least one screw on each side that goes through both the back cover and the hinge. If the hinge is normally affixed with 3 screws and you open the lid with one missing, each mount is taking on that extra stress.
Best practice is to reinstall those screws before opening the lid with the back cover removed.
The one I have been using successfully for the last 2+ years is made by “Carlinkit”
Every now and then, it will take a long time or outright fail to pair, requiring that I power cycle it. Happens maybe every 2-3 weeks, I average 2-4 pairings per day.
Otherwise, the experience is mostly seamless.
They had (or maybe still have) an extended warranty / free replacement program for this issue
This is either a problem with graphics memory or graphics silicon.
That puts it into logic board level repair territory, which will certainly push you past the $100 threshold.
The gunplay was clunky when it came out. FO3/NV very much had an “Oblivion with guns” feel to them.
I’ve always primarily used VATS. Unarmed or melee focused builds can also be viable, but the early game is rough.
As for mods, I would recommend a modlist. “Viva New Vegas” is one I’ve played with, currently doing a “Begin Again” playthrough - the latter adds a lot of the nicer features from Fallout 4 and includes Tale of Two Wastelands which combines FO3/NV into a single game, you can travel between each wasteland and bring all your stuff with you.
Ultimately, these games aren’t really an FPS so the shooting will always feel a bit off. The story / dialogue / environmental storytelling are really where it’s at!
Hobo Wars and Bubble Boy were my jam
Yes
::: spoiler Is having to use spoiler tags really that inconvenient? :::
Look at the top of the comment. The Lemmy user didn’t write this up, they copied and pasted a comment somebody posted on a news site.
Yes, though whether or not it’s economical to do so will depend on local economics where you are.
If you bought the card new yourself, it likely would have come with at least a 3 year warranty.
If I understand correctly, you’re getting a sudden loss of signal to the monitor but the rest of your system remains powered on (fans, lights, maybe capslock is also still responsive).
An abrupt full system shutdown is often the result of a thermal or power problem. If a component (CPU, GPU) overheats or the power supply is asked to deliver more power than it is able to, everything will cut out.
Others are citing thermal issues and there is merit in checking your temperatures but that is not likely to be the case here because of what I just listed. I would also add that an overheated GPU will be able to power on again within minutes, not an hour, after the shutdown event.
Symptoms point to a likely defective GPU. The most common point of failure is the VRAM. You can find and run Nvidia MATS/MODS diagnostic software to test the card’s memory and confirm whether or not that is what’s happening.
Ultimately, troubleshooting is a matter of isolating problems and the best way to isolate a hardware issue is by substituting in supplemental hardware.
If you’re able to replicate the issue fairly quickly (e.g by running a benchmark program to force the card to drop out), you might start with the power supply since it’s usually the cheaper component to replace.
Mine didn’t come with a case, it’s a very simple circuit so not much concern of ESD causing a problem.
It basically just runs power through every pin on the cable to illuminate corresponding LEDs.
Here’s the one I use: https://treedix.com/products/treedix-usb-cable-tester-board-usb-cable-checker-data-wire-with-acrylic-case-charging-test-data-line-type-c-micro-type-a-type-b
The exposed pads are also fantastic to break out data lines for measurement when performing electronics repairs.
There are superior versions of this that include every physical USB port (A, B, C, Micro, Mini, and even lightning) so that you can test any cable instead of just type C to type C.
Gotta wonder how much of the author’s amazement stems from the fact that they weren’t really into VR before. Most of the experiences they described have been around since 2016.
I own a repair shop and routinely order from Newegg, Amazon, BHPhoto, Best Buy, and many other vendors. We don’t have any more problems with Newegg than any other vendor, so from my perspective they’re still fine. Amazon has the most flexible and convenient return policy of the bunch.
That motherboard has a single M.2 slot, so as long as the case you choose accommodates them you’d be using SATA 2.5” drives.
Cool thing about PCPartPicker is that it filters for compatibility when browsing parts options and there are tons of filters in the sidebar while you’re browsing. If you want to omit certain vendors, you can deselect them or even create an account and permanently disable them account wide.
You should, it’s quite powerful and can work in tandem with both DMDE and UFS Explorer!
Power cycling the drive reboots and reinitializes it. I’ve mostly seen it with SSDs - you get a few dozen MB worth of reads before it drops out, unplugging and reconnecting a SATA power connector that many times would be real tedious so you automate it with a relay.